New York Times

Green Papaya Salad

This tangy, piquant salad is a version of the classic Vietnamese dish, which can be served as a first course, or a fiery side dish next to simple grilled meats or fish. It comes from Chris Shepherd, a Houston chef who is trying to tell the story of his city's food, among the most diverse in the country. If Thai chiles are too hot to bear (or not available), substitute other, milder peppers like serrano or jalapeño. Just don't use regular papaya even if it seems unripe; it won't have the right flavor and texture as a true green papaya. And if you can’t get green papaya, you can make this with green mango, seeded cucumber, cabbage or kohlrabi. The intense, funky dressing will work with any practically any cooling, crunchy vegetable you’ve got.